On every ‘real’ expedition there need to be smart modifications on the equipment. In our case the ice tools had to bite the dust. They got additional wings wich converted them into real multi-tools. God what can you all do with them: dig holes, sit on it, bury scat, blind penguins with sunlight, go sledging… Our climbing elite has hopes to drill through overhanging cornices near the summit — let them do, as long as I do not get hit by the stuff they dig out. Furthermore, you can hit your head pretty good with those things while climbing. Okay, if you came all the way until here you probably want to know all the details. Well, then here you have the technical details for potential cornice drill technicians (mothers and kids can stop reading here): plank sheet on it, screw it tight, done — ‘Keep it simple’. Surface of the wing is approximately 150 x 100 mm at 152 g additional weight. |
Some joyful pedants might object and say that such security relevant tools should also provide safety against bending and shifting. Well, this wonderful construction is providing these features basically automatically. The countersink screw is pulling the 2mm aluminium plank sheet into the oversized holes of the ice tool when thightened. For that purpose the tool got additional bevels to ensure the construction reaches the so called form closure to prevent bending and shifting at least in the hands of the average climber. Furthermore, stability of the plank sheet increases due to the bolted fastening because it neatly follows the curvature of the mattock. In principle this should also work with mattocks that have elongated holes or bigger keyways. If applicable an additional plank sheet needs to be mounted as counterpart. Well, you will make it — worst case you have to stop just beneath the cornice. |
Today we established on our web page a new section for press releases — ‘Media’ — toprovide access to already existing and upcoming news in the media about our expedition. Some of you might have no access to some of the newspaper and journals, so we like to provide the information here. Beginning of this week a little article was published at the bulletin of the Sächsischen Bergsteigerbundes, to give a summary of the things we intend to do. Furthermore, just this Friday released was another article in the locale newspaper ‘Sächsische Zeitung’. While the bulletin can be downloaded, the article in the newspaper can’t but we got clearance to offer you the article also via our page. Have fun while browsing… |
This weekend we did it… We tested a part of our equipment and discussed the last details before our start in January. It was also our first time that we came together as a team… teambuilding. Unfortunately not everybody was able to join us. Robert and Franz have been sick home and only their good wishes have been with us. We startet on Saturday, 17.12. into the winterly mountains to put the tent and other equipment to a brief test.To break with any kind of luxury we did not set up the tent in the woods but directly on the lawn behind the house of Michaels parents (whom we want to thank again at this point). To give up luxury if you don’t have a choice is somehow easy, but here… The sauna was literally only a couple of steps away. We bravely withstood the temptation in our upcoming accomodation — which first had to set up. Plentiful snow and storm and the missing manual to set up the tent have been rather suboptimal conditions to set a new speed record. There is still room for improvement! |
After the energy-sapping ascent of the icy north face of the Großen Lugstein we found rest in our cosy tent and started to prepare our meal. A lovingly hand-crafted pad for our new XGKs (to preserve the bottom of the tent) was thrown out after 10 minutes due to constant noise, and Barbara who volunteered as chef went the same way… In the evening, it was already pitch-black, bitterly cold and we have been wrapped in our sleeping bags when we all of a sudden got a visitor. Like Father Christmas he came and gave us four pair of handmade woollen socks and fitting frowsts. One had to freeze further. ;-) Who ever had a heart for freezing mountaineers out there in Zinnwald we sincerely thank you and want to let you know that the socks keept us perfectly warm. The next morning we stopped beeing heroically. When we saw the sheer enormity of frozen waterdrops on the inside of the tent, just waiting to drizzle down on us at the slidest bit of warming, we decided to end the test and move our breakfest into the house 50 meters away. |
To develop appropriate strategies and look for possible routes through the wall good geographical material is indispensable. The same applies to reports from other teams to participate from their experience. Both possibilities do not exist for Monte Buckland and his surroundings. Almost 50 years past since the Italien expedition climbed Monte Buckland and this was done on a different route. André, one of our cartographers was able to lay his hands on a cloud-free satellite image covering our area of interest. Ground resolution is good enough to support us with knowledge about ice and rock sections or indications for possible camp grounds. In combination with recent elevation data, the satellite image will also help us to navigate while approaching Monte Buckland. |