Our expedition walked in the tracks of missionary and adventurer Alberto de Agostini, who was 100 years ago the first man to explore the mountains in Tierra del Fuego. In the year 1910 he was send to lead a mission in Tierra del Fuego, and explored in the following years the channels of the archipelago, crossed parts of the mountain ranges by foot and climbed several mountains himself. The first expeditions to Monte Sarmiento and Monte Buckland he did in 1912. About the rare sight of Monte Buckland he wrote in his notes: ” not far away, on the other side of a gorge, a solitary and massive peak rises like a gaint obelisk, that is largely veiled by clouds… In the south west face [note: from where later the first ascent happened] a small glacier is nestling close to the summit. From this side the mountain is a bit more gentle, even though an ascent seems to be difficult here as well.“[1] He gave the neighbouring peak the name „Monte Sella“ (in honour of an italian statesman), bad weather prevented an ascent of the mountain. His comrehensive travel reports, all together with his photographs represent an exciting documentation of the people and the landscape of Tierra del Fuego in those days.
In 1928 and 1929 the German aviation pioneer Gunther Plüschow and his flight engineer Ernst Dreblow flew for the fist time across the Cordillera Darwin and Monte Buckland. The first aerial photographs of this region have been made and brought to europe; the book „Silberkondor über Feuerland“ [2] by Plüschow and his movie became best sellers at his time.
In 1956 and by the age of 74 de Agostini led again an expedition to Monte Sarmiento. On the 7th of March the team Clemente Maffei and Carlo Mauri succeeded to climb the summit via the south west ridge [3]. Due to extreme difficult ice conditions the mountain was not climbed again afterwards. Only the slidly smaller west peak has seen three lucky ascents until now [4,5,6].
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During the expedition in 1956 de Agostini was facinated by the summit of Monte Buckland when he saw him from the other side of the fjord and compared him due to the similarities with Torre Muztagh, a legendary, and at that time unscaled but assiduously courted mountain in the Himalayas [7].
Again it was Carlo Mauri who organised a Ragni di Lecco-Expedition to climb Monte Buckland in 1966. All 6 team members -Mauri, Ferrari, Allipi, Giudici, Machetto and Pirovano- reached the summit on February 6th. The route they took led them from Bahía Encanto and over the west slope of the mountain into a narrow gorge onto a glacier and further into the south west face and up to the summit [8]. The team was almost stopped by a vast crevice but Ferrari discovered a small overhang, leading to the face to the summit. The last 70 meters they had to climb a steep tube in the ice up to a narrow ridge which they followed towards the South, leading to the summit [9].
Since the first ascent Monte Buckland and his surroundings are in a state of inertia. There have been a few activities over the following decades until now, but either they have not been seriously focused on the summit or the ascent was thwarted by bad weather [10].
Bibliography:
[1] |
De Agostini, A. (1924): Zehn Jahre im Feuerland. Brockhaus, Leipzig |
[2] |
Plüschow, G. (1929): Silberkondor über Feuerland. Ullstein, Berlin |
[3] |
— (1957): American Alpine Journal, Vol. 10, S. 165 – 166 |
[4] |
— (1988): American Alpine Journal, Vol. 30, S. 178 |
[5] |
Wickwire, J. (1996): American Alpine Journal, Vol. 38, S. 238 – 240 |
[6] |
Gantzhorn, R. (2010): American Alpine Journal, Vol. 52, S. 191 – 192 |
[7] |
De Agostini, A. (1958): Sfingi di ghiaccio. ILTE, Torino |
[8] |
— (1967): American Alpine Journal, Vol. 15, S. 400 |
[9] |
Rocca, A. (1989): Cuadernos patagonicos, Vol. 6 |
[10] |
Scott, D. (1996): The Alpine Journal, Vol. 101, S. 83 – 89 |
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